I don't see the "H" in the model number, so if you were hoping for it to have doubleshots, I don't think they do.  I'm guessing the "L" in LRCUS means lasered keycaps.

Might be a good deal for clear switches but I'd ask seller to pull a keycap to verify. Might be browns.

I don't see the "H" in the model number, so if you were hoping for it to have doubleshots, I don't think they do.  I'm guessing the "L" in LRCUS means lasered keycaps.

You are correct, nothing but lasered keycaps to see here. Move along folks.



Still, if it wasn't piss-yellow beige I'd consider getting one as a cheap at-work board. I actually use a black doubleshot one at home, they're not a bad board when in this price range.

I must have missed before, but title says white key switches

The G80-8113 only comes in MX switches, but it's a crap shoot as to whether it's brown or clear MX.

They're clears.  It's an internal Cherry Corp designation.  They used to have one they called Whites a LONG time ago and don't want to have any confusion.

EDIT:  I learned all that from ripster, he really is the number one keyboard expert in the world.

Hm..so it seems like an okay deal to harvest clears, right?

YES!

Man! I should have canceled my cherry clear order on the phantom, and just gone with this.

Will the keycaps work with a modern keyboard? I see nothing wrong with using cherry official lasered keys as a moogle kit.

I mean $50 shipped for what... 122? cherry clears isn't a bad deal at all.

Yep, great deal for clears. I have one myself in the closet.

Keycaps should work fine, except the spacebar. I used them as a replacement moogle kit myself at one point.

Great, now I want one, and there are only 5 left. Hmm, I wonder if the "bump" is worn on these. I think either way, I should be able to find enough to properly populate a phantom....

Ebay G80s are a gamble as to the tactile bump being worn to crap.

Let's remember that most of these POS boards, while worn, are generally only worn in very specific places.  The function keys and the top row of numbers should all be fine... there will surely be enough good switches to repopulate your Poker.

Indeed, I'll report back here when it arrives incase others are curious of their condition etc, might take a couple of weeks to arrive tho seeings I'm in Australia.

Too bad they aren't double-shots.  It looks like ebay sellers have all figured out they can charge top dollar for old keyboards.  I don't see any non-trashed Cherry boards for <$100.  :-/  I'll stick with my brand new order of MX switches through Phantom order, and not deal with all the crap.  :-)

Finally turned up today, seller took about a week to actually ship it.. switches all feel OK, even the rather dirty keys and numpad that has obviously seen a lot of use.  Will be tearing it down this weekend to harvest the stems for my poker, fun fun!  Oh the lids for the relegendable keys are all there too.

not a big fan of 35 price point with like 15 bucks of shipping...

Ebay G80s are a gamble as to the tactile bump being worn to crap.

Wrong. It's the internal switch that causes the sloppy feel. The little leafs do not cause the stems to wear down. The metal leafs over time collapse and don't provide the same amount of pressure as they do when they are new. You can actually fiddle with them and make them feel a lot better by pulling them out a bit.

But take a POS keyboard that has clears that has been used heavily and put the stems into a keyboard with brand new switch housings and they will feel brand new. You can do the reverse as well. Put brand new stems in beat to hell housing and they will feel very used.

Finally turned up today, seller took about a week to actually ship it.. switches all feel OK, even the rather dirty keys and numpad that has obviously seen a lot of use.  Will be tearing it down this weekend to harvest the stems for my poker, fun fun!  Oh the lids for the relegendable keys are all there too.

See above.

Most don't buy the 11900 because of the layout. They are one of the worst Cherry boards to harvest doubleshots from, as all of the fkeys, nav, numpad are R3 profile, and even the main block has less compatible keys than a MY8000. I find them to be pretty nice boards even though I am not that fond of black switch. Two of the 11900 I have picked up recently have been modded, one to clears, one to greens.
If you are just after PBT though, you can but a MY8000Lsomething for around $10 most of the time. Make sure to get a 2tone white/beige for compatible modifiers though... the newer all grey ones usually have incompatible keys.

Bini is 100% correct, I have had Cherry boards over 20 years old that felt like ****, and it is easy to fix them as he outlines. I only bother on PCB mount boards though, plates are too much effort for me...

So I just have to pull the leaf back out and my near linear clears will feel all right and bright again?

It's not that easy, cause the metal leafs get worn down. It's best to try and find new or near new housings and then use whatever stems/springs you want.

But if you play with that leaf you might get it to feel better. Ergo clears in brand new housing are usually so bumpy that they stick sometimes.

I had a couple sticking switches. Like an idiot I fiddled with a few of the leaves before lubing the bump on the stem. Now I have a somewhat uneven key feel. Be really careful fiddling with the leaf, it really adds to the keyfeel, and if you bend it too much, it can either stick (like what BiNiaRiS said), or feel completely linear. I have a few 'linear-like' switches on my Poker, that I have to retweak because I bent em too far.

Its why they get worn down. The metal is very thin.